It’s a fifty-minute flight to
Amsterdam and half a lifetime checking through security. Then there’s the
train from Schiphol airport to Amsterdam Central. And this is what you see on
first leaving the station.
We arrived at 9 am (don’t ask me what time we got
up!) and we weren’t allowed into our hotel until 2 pm. So, we set out to
explore the streets beyond the river. It was a noisy business, trundling
our wheeled suitcases over old cobbled streets and sounding like the 7th
Cavalry on manoeuvres. It was also highly dangerous.
One word.
Cyclists.
Before we set out they looked, from
a distance, elegant and romantic, whole conveys of them swooping across streets
like Valkyries on wheels. When you’re on the streets with them, it’s something
entirely different. They appear from nowhere. You turn to check. The road is
clear. Then whoosh, hundreds of them beamed down from the ‘Enterprise’ and you
barely escape with your lives as they speed by, razor-like indifferent.
If you’re lucky enough to be on a
pavement, not congested with parked bikes, you can appreciate the health giving
benefits of a culture addicted to bicycles. It’s a bit like bird-watching made
more interesting by the fact that most of the bikes are of the old ‘sit up and
beg’ variety. This enforces a straight-back posture, arms outstretched to the
handlebars with unfortunate results. It makes the riders look snooty as they
glide by in their trickles, torrents and floods. They all have the same
expression, one of serene indifference to trams and pedestrians alike.
As we walked farther into the area
bordering the red light district, the sweet and heavy stench of cannabis clogged
our noses, as did the sex. Hmm, could be better phrased.
We passed shops selling cannabis ice-cream, shops selling dildos the size of cricket bats, and embedded into the cobbles, a
tasteful bronze sculpture of a hand fondling a breast. There were also cheese-tasting shops. We didn't stop to check out whether the Gouda was laced with cannabis too. Outside of one though, our suitcases narrowly missed a flattened rat or large mouse, perhaps spaced out on cheese.
After checking in and jettisoning
our suitcases, we embarked on a six-mile circular tour of the canals, before
pasta, beer and then mercifully bed.
Holland's favourite son Rembrandt surrounded by sculptures of his famous painting 'The Night Watch
Tomorrow Vincent van Gogh - more accurately next week)