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St Magnus was not your normal Viking. When the king of Norway led an attack on Angelsey, Magnus refused to get off the ship and fight. Instead, he stayed onboard to sing psalms. This clearly pleased God, because Magnus went on to rule Orkney with his cousin Hâkon, until they fell out and he was axed on the head by his cousin’s cook.
He was buried in a barren rocky place, which miraculously turned int a grassy field. When further miracles occurred the local bishop, William the Old, told everyone not to be so silly, until he was struck blind. Following the restoration of his sight by praying at the grave of Magnus, William became Magnus’s greatest champion and was instrumental in building the cathedral in nearby Kirkwall.
Building began in 1135 under the auspices of Rögnvald Kolsson who himself became a saint after being murdered by an argumentative Scotsman.
It was built from red and yellow sandstone and follows the Romanesque style, a smaller version of Durham cathedral. In fact the stone masons from Durham were said to have travelled to the Orkneys and started much of the building. It would have involved an impressive journey across rough seas in relatively primitive ships, and illustrates early medieval mobility.
Even from a distance, some tombs stand out. And what makes this so refreshing is the idealism, certainty, and the unabashed confidence in the Victorian mission. Worth reading and contemplating ‘white guilt.’
The Cathedral also has one of the finest collections of C17th gravestones. Some years ago, it was decided to ‘tidy up’ the graveyard. Bodies were disinterred and reburied en-masse. Their gravestones now line the walls of the Cathedral, their message unremittingly grim. Aware of my own sell-by-date they made for sombre reading. Every stone was etched with skulls, crossbones and sometimes hour glasses. All ended with the same cheerful message. 'Remember Death'
THE LEGEND OF MARWICK’S HOLE
One of the more unique designs of the church involves the use of a dungeon. The dungeon is called Marwick’s Hole. The cathedral did not always have a dungeon. It is thought that the dungeon was added as a prisoner holding cell at some point – possibly around 1540 and was in use into the 18th century. The chamber is found between the south wall of the choir and the south transept chapel and is the only cathedral in the British Isles with a dungeon. Originally the chamber was accessed from an upper chamber where prisoners would be deposited via a chute, although a more humane ladder was added later.
The Dungeon’s most famous inmate tells of a terrible time in history. Janet Forsyth lived in nearby Westray in the 17th century. The story is told of Janet who had a dream that her sweetheart Benjamin would perish at sea. The following day, Benjamin and several other men were set to head out fishing. The day was fine and he scoffed at her claims he would meet his end if he sailed. Ignoring her pleas, the men headed out. Before long a thick fog descended and Benjamin and the men never returned. The people of Westray blamed Janet for the loss of the fishermen and Janet was branded a witch. Janet retreated to live in solitude as her tarnished reputation grew.
A few years later, a ship was spotted in trouble off Westray’s coastline. As the storm raged, islanders waited for the ship to capsize and break up, hoping to find a windfall of treasures wash ashore. Janet tried to rally them to go and offer assistance but no one stepped forward. So Janet launched her own small boat into the storm to help the stricken ship. Despite the storm, she managed to get to the ship and guided it safely to the shelter of Pierowall Bay. This act of bravery sealed her fate. No woman could go up against a storm like that and survive? Surely she was a witch! A trial was held in 1629 in Kirkwall. She was found guilty of witchcraft and sentenced to death. As the sentence was read out, she looked out across the gathered crowd. There she saw Benjamin standing in a naval uniform. He had not perished at sea – but had been press-ganged into the navy. On seeing him, she allegedly screamed out “Save me, Ben!” before being dragged from the trial and tossed into the dungeon at Marwick’s Hole. However, when they went to retrieve her from the dungeon the next day for her execution, the dungeon was empty. Local tradition says she was rescued by her love, Benjamin.
Courtesy of USA River Cruises.